Tassar Handspun

Dumka

Introduction

Tasar hand-spinning is a vital livelihood activity and cultural practice in Dumka district, Jharkhand. For generations, Tasar silk has been part of the socio-economic and cultural fabric of the Santhal Pargana region, which includes Dumka and its neighboring districts. The practice of hand-spinning Tasar is a household activity, often carried out by women sitting in their courtyards, chatting with neighbors, and singing folk songs while they spin the yarn. It is more than work; it is woven into their daily lives and social bonds.

Silkworms are reared in forested areas, feeding on the leaves of Arjun and Asan trees. The beauty of Tasar production is that it coexists harmoniously with nature. Tribal communities collect cocoons from the forest after the moths emerge, ensuring no harm is done to the life cycle of the silkworms, making it a sustainable and eco-friendly practice.

In Dumka, the hand-spinning of Tasar yarn has become an important source of livelihood, especially for rural and tribal women. Thousands of women are engaged in this work, which allows them to earn an income while staying close to home and managing household responsibilities. For many families, Tasar spinning provides financial support during the agricultural off-season, making it a critical component of rural livelihood security.

Over time, this humble craft has gained national and international recognition. With proper support, Tasar hand-spinning has the potential to uplift entire communities by combining heritage with economic empowerment. The artisans of Dumka, with their skilled hands and deep connection to nature, are not just producing yarn; they are spinning stories of resilience, tradition, and hope.

Tasar silk, famous for its natural gold sheen and coarse yet elegant texture, is produced from the wild silkworm Antheraea mylitta.

Historical Background and Origins

The practice of Tasar hand-spinning in Dumka emerged prominently during the 1970s and 1980s, coinciding with various rural development initiatives aimed at promoting non-farm livelihoods. Prior to this, Tasar was primarily cultivated for reeling purposes, but hand-spinning gained momentum with the intervention of Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), Central Silk Board (CSB), and grassroots organizations.

Organizations like PRADAN (Professional Assistance for Development Action) played a critical role in the late 1980s and 1990s by introducing improved spinning techniques and organizing tribal women into self-help groups to take up Tasar hand-spinning as a livelihood.

Geographical Spread of Tasar Hand-Spinning

The tradition of Tasar hand-spinning is not confined to a single village or block but is widely spread across Dumka district and its neighboring regions. Dumka, often called the heartland of Tasar in Jharkhand, holds a prominent place in the map of India’s silk production. The forests, climate, and cultural practices of Dumka make it an ideal region for Tasar rearing and spinning. It is not merely an industry here; it is part of the rural rhythm of life. Women can be seen sitting on their verandahs, spinning Tasar yarn in the afternoons while children play nearby and elders tell stories from the past. This craft has woven itself into the social fabric of the region.

Primary Region

The primary area where Tasar hand-spinning thrives is Dumka district itself. Within Dumka, several administrative blocks are particularly active in Tasar activities.

Surrounding Areas

The neighboring districts of Godda, Pakur, Sahebganj, Jamtara, and Deoghar in the Santhal Pargana region are also deeply involved in Tasar production and hand-spinning. These regions share similar forest cover, tribal populations, and socio-economic conditions, making Tasar activities a natural livelihood extension. Additionally, parts of Banka and Bhagalpur in Bihar have also adopted Tasar hand-spinning, showing the cultural and economic spill-over of this traditional craft across state borders.

Notable Villages and Blocks

Within Dumka, specific villages and blocks have become prominent hubs for Tasar hand-spinning due to the concentration of skilled artisans and the availability of raw materials. Kathikund, Shikaripara, Masaliya, and Gopikandar are among the most active blocks. In these areas, Tasar spinning is not just a source of income but a collective identity. Often, entire hamlets are engaged in the process, from rearing to spinning. Early in the morning, it is common to see groups of women setting out to collect cocoons or gathering in community centers for spinning and training sessions. These activities create a sense of unity and shared purpose among the villagers.

Overall, Tasar hand-spinning has become a lifeline for the rural economy in Dumka and its surrounding areas, supporting thousands of households while preserving an age-old tradition that connects people to their land, forests, and culture.

Communities Involved

For centuries, these communities have nurtured a harmonious relationship with nature, drawing sustenance from the forests and weaving their livelihoods around forest produce. Tasar sericulture is one such practice that has blended seamlessly with their way of life. The primary communities involved in Tasar hand-spinning are -

The art of Tasar hand-spinning in Dumka is closely linked to the rich traditions of the tribal communities living in this region

Santhals

The Santhals are the largest tribal group in Jharkhand and have a long history of silk rearing and spinning. For them, Tasar is not just a source of income but part of their identity. In many Santhal households, it is common to see the women spinning Tasar yarn while singing folk songs or engaging in community gatherings. Their deep knowledge of the forest, host trees like Arjun and Asan, and the lifecycle of the Tasar silkworm make them natural custodians of this craft.

Paharias

The Paharias, another tribal group residing in the hilly and forested parts of Dumka, have traditionally depended on the forest for their livelihood. They have embraced Tasar rearing and spinning as an extension of their ecological knowledge. For Paharia families, Tasar spinning has become a source of empowerment, especially for women who can now contribute to the household income without leaving their villages.

Mundas

The Mundas, with their agricultural roots, have also integrated Tasar spinning into their lives. They manage their time between farming and spinning, making it a seasonal yet sustainable activity. The income from Tasar spinning helps them cope with the uncertainties of rain-fed agriculture.

Oraons

The Oraon community, known for their community solidarity and cooperative spirit, actively participates in Tasar-related activities. Oraon women often form self-help groups to collectively spin yarn, share resources, and sell their products. This has strengthened their economic independence and social bonds.

These communities have been the custodians of forest-based livelihoods for generations. Their lives are intricately connected to the forests, not just for food and fuel but for cultural practices and traditional knowledge systems. Tasar sericulture fits naturally into this socio-economic setup because it allows them to earn a livelihood while preserving the forest ecosystem. The practice of collecting cut cocoons, spinning yarn by hand, and weaving silk fabrics are not isolated tasks but part of a larger cultural continuum that values harmony with nature, collective work, and shared prosperity.

Tasar rearing and hand spinning provides them with a means of livelihood that does not require migration to distant cities, allowing them to stay rooted in their villages, continue their cultural traditions, and participate in community life. In this way, Tasar hand-spinning is more than just an economic activity; it is a symbol of resilience, tradition, and sustainable rural living in Dumka.

Cultural Significance

For the tribal communities of Dumka, Tasar silk is an essential part of their cultural heritage, social life, and emotional identity. The connection between Tasar silk and the local way of life is deeply ingrained, stretching far beyond economics into the realm of tradition, community bonding, and spiritual expression.

In tribal households, Tasar weaving and spinning are seen as sacred crafts. Women sit together in their courtyards, under the shade of trees, sharing stories and singing traditional songs while spinning Tasar yarn. This act of spinning becomes a communal ritual that strengthens social ties and creates a sense of unity. The rhythmic sound of the Takli or charkha is as much a part of village life as the morning prayers or evening folk gatherings.

Tasar silk plays a special role during traditional ceremonies and community festivals. During weddings, the bride is often adorned in Tasar silk garments, symbolizing prosperity, purity, and a connection to ancestral traditions. Families take pride in gifting handwoven Tasar sarees or shawls as part of dowry or festive exchanges. Wearing Tasar silk is not merely about fashion; it is about honoring the family, showing respect to elders, and marking important life milestones.

During harvest festivals like Sohrai and Sarhul, villagers wear Tasar garments to participate in rituals that thank nature for its bounty. In these moments, Tasar silk becomes a symbol of gratitude and reverence for the forests that sustain their livelihoods. Even religious ceremonies involve the use of Tasar cloth for sacred purposes, such as wrapping offerings or decorating idols, as silk is considered auspicious in many tribal belief systems.

For the tribal communities of Dumka, engaging in Tasar spinning and weaving preserves not only their economic well-being but also their cultural identity. It gives them a sense of pride and ownership over their heritage. The threads of Tasar silk carry with them stories of resilience, environmental stewardship, and generational knowledge, making it much more than a fabric—it is a living tradition that continues to weave together the social and spiritual fabric of rural life in Dumka.

Tools and Equipment

Takli (Spindle)

The Takli is a small, hand-held spindle made of wood or metal, traditionally used by tribal women while sitting in courtyards or under trees. It symbolizes simplicity and represents a deep connection with India's spinning heritage. Even today, elderly women in villages prefer Takli for spinning as it allows them to work at their own pace.

Improved Spinning Machines

With the advent of solar-powered e-ratt machines, productivity has increased while reducing manual drudgery. The e-ratt is a mechanized spinning device that uses solar energy, making it sustainable and accessible even in remote villages where electricity supply is irregular.

Charkha

The Charkha, a symbol of self-reliance in Indian culture, is still in use but has evolved over time. The modern charkha used in Tasar spinning is modified to handle the unique texture of Tasar silk, ensuring consistent yarn quality.

Reeling Devices

These are used in the initial stages to process the cocoons and extract silk filaments. Reeling devices help separate the filament silk from the waste silk, which is then used for hand-spinning.

Drying Racks

After spinning and washing, the yarn needs to be dried properly to prevent any fungal damage. Simple bamboo or wooden racks are used for drying the yarn in the sun.

Process of Tasar Hand-Spinning

The process of Tasar hand-spinning involves several careful steps. Each stage is essential in ensuring that the final yarn retains its organic texture and strength. Here is a detailed description -

1. Cocoon Procurement

The first and foremost step in the Tasar hand-spinning process is the procurement of cocoons. In Dumka, tribal families collect cocoons after the Tasar moth naturally emerges from them. This process is a reflection of the community's harmonious relationship with nature. They do not harm the life cycle of the silkworm by killing it prematurely. Instead, they wait for the moth to come out, leaving behind an empty or cut cocoon that is then collected. This eco-friendly method ensures sustainability and protects biodiversity. Typically, families venture into the forests early in the morning, especially during the cocoon collection season, searching beneath the Arjun and Asan trees for these cocoons. The forests of Dumka are not just sources of raw material; they are part of the community's livelihood, tradition, and daily life.

2. Cooking (Boiling of Cocoons)

Once the cocoons are collected, the next step is cooking, or boiling, which is crucial for processing the silk. The purpose of this step is to soften the sericin, the natural glue-like substance that holds the silk fibers together. This is usually done in large earthen pots or aluminum vessels over a wood fire or gas stove. In rural households, women often gather together to perform this task, sharing local gossip and household tips while keeping a watchful eye on the boiling cocoons. Care is taken to maintain just the right temperature. If the cocoons are boiled too long or at too high a temperature, the silk fibers can become brittle or damaged. Thus, this step requires not just labor but also traditional knowledge and experience, usually passed down from elder women to the younger generation.

3. Reeling and Extraction

After boiling, the next process is reeling and extraction. Here, the fine silk filament is carefully unwound from the softened cocoons using simple reeling machines or even manual techniques in some villages. The best quality filaments are set aside for reeling into fine silk, which is used for high-end fabrics. However, the waste silk that remains after this process is not discarded. Instead, it becomes the raw material for hand-spinning. This separation of filament and waste silk ensures that nothing goes to waste, reflecting the tribal community's respect for resources and frugality.

4. Carding (Cleaning and Straightening)

The collected waste silk is then washed and dried. Once it is clean, the next step is carding, where the fibers are straightened and impurities are removed. This is done using small wooden hand-carding tools or basic carding machines. Carding requires careful handling to avoid breaking the fibers, and it is usually done while women sit in groups, chatting and helping each other. The carding process aligns the fibers parallel to each other, making them ready for spinning. This step is essential because it determines the ease of spinning and the quality of the final yarn.

5. Sliver Formation

Once the fibers are carded, they are gently drawn into long, rope-like strands known as slivers. This is done by hand, with great care and patience. The slivers need to be uniform in size and texture, as this will directly impact the quality of the yarn produced later. Women artisans handle this step with a practiced touch, often passing the skill down to their daughters. This process not only prepares the material for spinning but also acts as a bonding activity among women in the community.

6. Spinning

The prepared slivers are then spun into yarn using either a Takli (hand spindle) or a solar-powered e-ratt machine. In many villages, spinning is a social activity. Women sit together in their courtyards, spinning yarn while singing folk songs or discussing village affairs. The act of spinning becomes a rhythm of daily life, blending work with cultural expression. Spinning requires a steady hand and a keen eye to ensure the yarn is even and strong. The spinner must balance speed and tension to produce yarn of consistent thickness.

7. Twisting

Once the yarn is spun, two or more strands are twisted together to increase strength and durability. This twisting is usually done by hand or using a simple twisting device. Twisting not only strengthens the yarn but also prepares it for weaving or further processing. This step is vital because Tasar yarn is often used for weaving durable fabrics, and without proper twisting, the yarn could break during weaving.

8. Reeling onto Bobbins

Finally, the twisted yarn is wound onto bobbins or reels. This makes it easier to store, transport, and use the yarn for weaving or dyeing. In many cases, the yarn is also made into hanks and sold in local markets or through cooperatives. Women often carry these hanks to nearby markets, where they sell them directly or through collective organizations. This stage marks the culmination of weeks of hard work and is often a source of pride for the artisans, who see their labor transformed into valuable, saleable products.

Categories of Yarn Produced

In the Tasar hand-spinning tradition of Dumka, different types of yarns are produced depending on the quality of cocoons and the intended end use. Each yarn has its own texture, cultural meaning, and market demand. The artisans, especially women spinners, skillfully differentiate the types of yarns based on the cocoon's origin and process. Let us look at the different categories in detail -

1. Ghicha Yarn

Ghicha yarn is made from pierced cocoons. These are cocoons from which the moth has naturally emerged, leaving behind an opening that makes the filament unsuitable for reeling into fine silk. The yarn has a coarse texture, rich with the rawness of nature. It is highly valued for its rustic appeal and is often used in weaving sarees, stoles, and furnishing fabrics that emphasize natural aesthetics. Ghicha yarn is popular among weavers and designers who work with organic and eco-friendly products.

2. Katya Yarn

Katya yarn is made from cut cocoons. In this process, the cocoons are manually cut open to extract the silk fiber. The texture of Katya yarn is slightly finer than Ghicha but retains a hand-spun charm. Katya yarn is soft yet has the typical Tasar character of unevenness, giving fabrics a unique texture. It is preferred for making shawls, scarves, and lightweight garments where a balance of softness and natural texture is desired.

3. Matka Yarn

Matka yarn is very similar to Katya yarn but is often blended with other fibers such as mulberry silk or cotton. The blending process helps in achieving different textures and cost variations, making Matka yarn versatile for various applications. Matka yarn is widely used in producing sarees, kurtas, and upholstery fabrics, and is particularly famous in handloom weaving centers across Eastern India. It is known for its slightly uneven surface, giving it a handcrafted look that is prized in the market.

4. Hand-Spun Tasar Filament Yarn

This is the finest variety of hand-spun Tasar yarn, where artisans spin the longer filaments directly, giving the yarn a smoother and silkier texture compared to Ghicha or Katya. The yarn maintains the natural golden sheen of Tasar silk, which is highly sought after in luxury markets. Hand-spun Tasar filament yarn is usually used for high-end fabrics, including bridal sarees, scarves, and export-quality garments. Spinning filament yarn requires a higher level of skill and is often done by experienced spinners in the community.

5. Blended Yarns

In some cases, Tasar silk waste is blended with cotton, wool, or even synthetic fibers to create affordable yarn options. Blended yarns are used for products like blankets, carpets, and utility fabrics where texture and durability are more important than pure silk quality. This process also helps in ensuring that no part of the cocoon is wasted, promoting zero-waste practices within the Tasar economy.

Organizations Involved

The promotion and sustenance of Tasar hand-spinning in Dumka have been possible due to the involvement of multiple organizations. These institutions, both government and non-government, play crucial roles in supporting the artisans through training, marketing, financial assistance, and infrastructure development. Their efforts have made Tasar hand-spinning a significant livelihood activity, especially for women and tribal communities. Below is a detailed elaboration:

1. PRADAN (Professional Assistance for Development Action)

PRADAN is one of the earliest organizations to promote Tasar-based livelihoods in Dumka and other parts of Jharkhand. It has worked extensively to organize tribal women into self-help groups (SHGs) and producer groups. PRADAN provides training on hand-spinning techniques, quality control, and business management. It helps artisans access raw materials like cocoons and links them with markets to sell their yarn. PRADAN also assists in developing leadership among rural women, ensuring that the community owns the value chain.

2. Jharkhand Silk Textile and Handicraft Development Corporation (Jharcraft)

Jharcraft is a government enterprise that plays a vital role in marketing and promoting Tasar products from Jharkhand. It provides a platform for hand-spun yarn and Tasar fabric through exhibitions, retail outlets, and online sales. Jharcraft helps artisans get fair prices by eliminating middlemen. It also supports product development and design interventions to meet modern market demands.

3. Central Silk Board (CSB)

The CSB operates under the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. It provides technical training to spinners and rearing families. CSB facilitates the introduction of improved tools like solar e-ratt and modern charkhas. It provides support in the form of infrastructure, capacity building, and research to enhance silk production.

4. Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC)

KVIC promotes rural industries like Tasar hand-spinning as part of its Khadi program. It provides artisans with charkhas (spinning wheels), working capital, and financial subsidies. KVIC also links artisans to Khadi institutions for marketing, helping them access wider markets both in India and abroad. Through its initiatives, KVIC encourages rural self-reliance and employment.

5. SERIFED (State Sericulture Federation)

SERIFED focuses on the procurement of Tasar cocoons from rearers and ensures fair pricing. It supports spinners by procuring hand-spun yarn for state-level marketing. The federation plays a role in organizing cocoon markets (Haats) where producers and buyers can interact directly. SERIFED also helps in capacity building and skill development.

6. Lac and Silk Board, Jharkhand

This state-level board focuses on the overall promotion of sericulture, including Tasar silk. It conducts training programs for artisans on silk production, spinning, and quality control. The board works to create awareness about improved practices and promotes eco-friendly production methods. It collaborates with NGOs and government schemes to enhance livelihood opportunities through Tasar hand-spinning.

Government Support and Programs

The government has played a pivotal role in nurturing and supporting Tasar hand-spinning activities in Dumka and its neighboring areas. Several schemes and initiatives have been introduced at both the central and state levels to uplift the Tasar sector, provide livelihood opportunities, and ensure the socio-economic development of rural and tribal communities. Below is a detailed description of various government programs in this regard:

The Cluster Development Program (CDP) of the Central Silk Board (CSB) is one of the most significant initiatives. Under this program, Tasar spinners are organized into producer groups or clusters. These clusters are given training, financial support, and technical assistance. By forming these groups, the government ensures that artisans are collectively empowered to negotiate better prices, access raw materials more easily, and market their products directly without middlemen. CDP also encourages the development of community-owned businesses in the Tasar sector, promoting self-reliance.

Through the Mahatma Gandhi National Rural Employment Guarantee Act (MGNREGA), the government supports Tasar production indirectly by creating infrastructure like rearing houses, plantation enclosures, and water storage facilities. In many villages of Dumka, MGNREGA funds are utilized for plantation of host trees such as Arjun and Asan, which are essential for Tasar silkworm rearing. This convergence of Tasar sericulture with MGNREGA helps create durable assets for rural communities while providing them with employment during lean agricultural periods.

The National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP) also provides significant support to the Tasar sector. NHDP focuses on enhancing the skills of artisans through structured training programs. Tasar spinners and weavers are trained in quality improvement, design innovation, and marketing strategies. Additionally, NHDP supports participation in exhibitions and trade fairs, giving artisans exposure to broader markets, both domestic and international.

The Skill India Mission, under the Ministry of Skill Development and Entrepreneurship, provides certification courses and technical training to rural youth and women in Tasar hand-spinning. Through this mission, women are trained in the use of modern tools like solar-powered e-ratt, better yarn grading, and finishing techniques. This program not only improves their skills but also builds their confidence to participate in market-oriented production.

In addition, the government provides Subsidized Toolkits that include Charkhas (spinning wheels), e-ratt machines, and other spinning accessories. These toolkits are distributed at low cost or free of charge under various schemes to ensure that even the poorest artisans can participate in Tasar spinning without worrying about equipment costs. This initiative has especially helped women in remote villages of Dumka, where access to modern equipment was previously limited.

Overall, these government programs have created a support system that encourages tribal and rural women to engage in Tasar hand-spinning as a sustainable livelihood. By providing training, infrastructure, tools, and market linkages, these schemes are helping revive and sustain this traditional craft while empowering the artisan communities of Dumka.

Challenges and Opportunities

Challenges

Limited access to quality cocoons - One of the primary challenges is the limited access to quality cocoons. In many areas, the supply of superior quality cocoons is irregular, and the farmers often do not get timely inputs like disease-free layings (DFLs) and technical guidance. The fluctuating availability of cocoons directly affects the consistency of Tasar yarn production. Many women spinners are forced to wait for months, leading to loss of livelihood during the off-season.
Low level of mechanization - Another significant challenge is the low level of mechanization. Most of the work is still done manually, especially in remote villages where electricity is erratic and modern tools are scarce. This leads to high physical labor and drudgery, particularly for women who have to juggle household chores along with spinning. The lack of ergonomic spinning devices also affects the health of artisans, often causing back pain and fatigue.
Unstable Market - The market scenario is unstable, with prices of Tasar yarn often dictated by middlemen or fluctuating market demands. Artisans lack direct market access and bargaining power, leaving them vulnerable to exploitation. They do not always have the knowledge or tools to negotiate fair prices for their hard work.
Tasar Production - Another core issue is the seasonal nature of Tasar production. Since Tasar silkworms depend on forest-based host trees and have specific breeding cycles, Tasar activities cannot be carried out throughout the year. This leads to seasonal unemployment for spinners and rearers, forcing them to migrate or take up other unskilled labor during lean periods.

Opportunities

Growing global demand - Despite these challenges, there are numerous opportunities that can be harnessed to uplift Tasar hand-spinning in Dumka. One of the biggest advantages is the growing global demand for eco-friendly and organic textiles. Tasar silk, being a natural and sustainable product, is in high demand among conscious consumers both in India and abroad. With appropriate branding and marketing, Tasar products from Dumka can find a niche in the global eco-fashion segment.
Linking sustainable fashion brands - There is also immense scope for linking with sustainable fashion brands. Designers and fashion houses are increasingly looking for hand-crafted, ethical textiles to incorporate into their collections. By building partnerships with such brands, Dumka's Tasar spinners can ensure a stable market and better returns.
Additionally, there is potential to develop women-led producer companies and cooperatives. By organizing the women spinners into formal producer groups or cooperatives, they can collectively own the production process, set fair prices, and access institutional markets directly. This would not only improve incomes but also promote leadership and decision-making among rural women, contributing to their social empowerment.
With strategic interventions in infrastructure, training, and market access, these opportunities can be transformed into concrete pathways for growth, turning Tasar hand-spinning into a model of sustainable rural enterprise in Dumka.

References

Central Silk Board, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. (2020). "Tasar Silk Industry in India: Status and Prospects."

PRADAN. (2015). "Livelihood Promotion through Tasar Value Chain Development in Jharkhand."

Jharkhand Silk Textile and Handicraft Development Corporation (Jharcraft). Annual Reports (2018-2022).

Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC). (2019). "Promotion of Tasar Hand-spinning and Weaving in Eastern India."

Mishra, S. (2017). "Traditional Silk Weaving Practices among the Santhal Community in Jharkhand." Journal of Rural Livelihoods.

Ministry of Rural Development, Government of India. (2021). "Convergence of MGNREGA with Sericulture Activities."

Lac and Silk Board, Jharkhand. (2020). Training Manuals and Field Reports.

Field Interviews with Tasar Spinners and Cluster Coordinators, Dumka District, 2024.

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